We spent 8 days in Hoi An with kids as part of our 45 days backpacking Vietnam. Here we share some honest truths about the town, things to do, and where to stay.
If you’re visiting Hoi An with kids, you’ll be in good company. Over recent years, Hoi An has established itself as one of the world’s premier worldschooling destinations, and it’s easy to see why. With a mix of culture, beaches, family-friendly activities, fine dining and numerous accommodation options, there’s plenty to occupy families in Hoi An, whether you’re here for a week or a year.
For most visitors to Vietnam, Hoi An is firmly on the radar so you won’t be alone, and you should prepare yourselves for crowds and (some) unwelcome signs of over-tourism. But don’t despair, with some pre-planning (and by following our tips), it’s still possible to have a wonderful time in Hoi An with kids, even if the secret of this World Heritage site is well and truly out.
Vietnam with kids travel guide
Your comprehensive guide to travelling Vietnam with kids, including accommodation suggestions and an itinerary, from a family that spent 45 day overlanding from HCMC to Hanoi.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. If you click to purchase, it is at no additional cost to you, and I receive a small commission.
Hoi An is no longer a quiet and quaint riverside town
Thanks to countless guidebook photos and Instagram reels, the historic streets and waterways of Hoi An have become the most iconic of Vietnamese scenes. The words ‘Hoi An’ might broadly translate as ‘Peaceful Meeting Place’ but in large parts of the Old Town, it’s anything but peaceful. Seemingly everyone who visits Vietnam includes Hoi An on their to-do list, and it’s no longer a quiet and quaint riverside town, despite its UNESCO listing.
If you’re like us, and visited Hoi An pre-kids (in our case, it was way back in 2007), you may have memories of gentle riverside strolls and relaxing drinks in local cafes. Those days are rapidly disappearing, with each year bringing an increasing amount of visitors and strain on the city’s infrastructure. You should expect crowds, persistent touts selling tours, and shopkeepers on a never-ending sales push. Bring some patience and recalibrate your expectations.
That’s not to say Hoi An should be written off. If you time your visit to the Old Town early in the morning before the tour groups descend, it’s still possible to imagine the river, narrow streets and bridges as they once were. Do try and avoid weekends though: domestic tourism is now a significant contributor to the busyness, to a much greater extent than twenty years ago.
If you dip your toes in sparingly, the crowds and noise can be exhilarating for an hour or so, especially if you find a table at one of the many restaurants to engage in some people-watching.
Our main tip for visiting Hoi An with kids is not to stay in the Old Town, but rather in the surrounding countryside. Grabs are very easy and cheap to get around, making accommodation outside of Hoi An much more accessible for families. Further down we chat more about choosing where to stay in Hoi An with kids, but we very much recommend Bon Sand Villa & Spa Hoi An.
Things to do in Hoi An with kids
One of the reasons that Hoi An is popular with worldschooling families is that there are so many things to do; from playing at the beach, making lanterns or clay pots, cruising along the river, and enjoying the night markets, to name a few.
You need a good ten days at least to cover all the things to do in Hoi An with kids, plus a couple of day trips. However, if you’re short on time, do check out the 2 days in Hoi An itinerary from our good friends over at Tin Box Traveller who were visiting Hoi An at the same time as us.
1. Lantern Making
Against the backdrop of yellow heritage buildings in Hoi An’s Old Town, lanterns adorn every archway, beam, and laneway. It’s the setting of these lanterns that makes Hoi An so special.
Lantern making is probably the most popular thing to do in Hoi An with kids of all ages (adults can do it to). There aren’t many crafting opportunities when you’re backpacking with kids and the lanterns make such a beautiful keepsake of your family travels. Yes, these lanterns fold up to take home with you!
There are a handful of lantern-making shops in Hoi An. We visited the Lantern Lady situated next to the river (click here for the Google Map point) and she was wonderful. The frame is pre-made for the foldable lanterns, so the activity consists of choosing your fabric, then gluing and cutting it to shape against the frame, and finally adding a tassel to hang below.
No booking required, just turn up, although mornings are quieter. We paid VND95,000 per lantern (small, foldable ones so they can fit in our backpacks).
2. Coconut boat ride
After lantern making, a coconut boat ride is an absolute must-do activity in Hoi An with kids. These are circular boats made from bamboo that take you around a coconut plantation. Kids will love the crab fishing, hat making from leaves, and best of all, being spun around in the boat at lightening speed.
We arranged a coconut boat tour via Chris’ Café right on the riverbank and were taken out by his brother. We visited in the morning and it was beautifully quiet. However, we’ve heard reports from others that the coconut boats can be exceptionally busy, so early in the day is definitely best. The full tour last about 1.5 hours.
You can also pre-book this tour online here.
3. Wander the Old Town
The star attraction of Hoi An is undoubtedly its UNESCO-listed World Heritage Old Town. Spreading out from the banks of the Thu Bon River, the old town is a great place to wander around, especially in the early morning before the heat and crowds become a problem.
It’s the sort of place you’ll happily spend a couple of hours, either shopping, sight-seeing or eating. You can also pay to visit the various temples that are scattered around town (buy tickets at the booths dotted around the old town).
If you have toddlers and are travelling with a buggy, this is a place you can use it. Hoi An is probably the most buggy-friendly city in Vietnam.
Make sure you set aside time to enjoy a drink overlooking the river and some souvenir purchases in the market. A Vietnam football shirt makes a good memento, but remember to haggle.
4. Night Markets
Hoi An comes alive in the evening with over one hundred stalls set up along the river banks and adjoining roads selling souvenirs and street food.
We enjoyed meandering through and then finding a plastic chair next to the river to enjoy some
bánh tráng and grilled corn on the cob, washed down with a local beer (juice for the kids, obviously).
We visited around 6pm and it didn’t feel too busy. It gets much busier as the evening draws on. In fact, after 7:30pm, it was too busy for us and we felt the need to retreat back to our accommodation away from the hustle and bustle (this is where we stayed).
5. Take a lantern boat ride
It’s worthwhile combining your visit to the night markets with a lantern boat ride. Once night falls over Hoi An, the river is bursting with colour from the hundred of lanterns adorning the boats and riverbank of Hoi An Old Town.
Touts are eager for your custom and initial prices for a lantern boat ride will be very inflated. Make sure you haggle. We paid VND150,000 for our family of four on one boat (this is not shared with other tourists). Along the main stretch are motored boats. Further towards An Hoi Bridge you can get a rowed boat, although be prepared to queue for these (prices are fixed here).
We took a motored boat downstream for about ten minutes. You can then release paper lanterns into the river. However, do think twice about the environmental effects of doing this.
6. Precious Heritage Museum and Art Gallery
The Precious Heritage Museum and Art Gallery, located in Hoi An Old Town, is home to the permanent exhibition of Réhahn’s Precious Heritage Collection, primarily displaying his photographic work.
Spread over two floors, this is a fascinating insight into the hill tribes of Vietnam where tradition is floundering against the wave of modernity.
Whilst this isn’t an obvious activity for kids, it’s small size makes it very manageable for them and the large, up-close portraits will hopefully encourage discussion on the traditional history of Vietnam.
7. Reaching Out Tea House
Step away from the hustle and bustle of Hoi An to the tranquil oasis of Reaching Out Tea House. This is a unique project where all the employees are deaf or having hearing loss. Silence is observed at all times and communication is via sign language, writing, or pre-made prompts at your table.
Have we really suggested a quaint tea shop where silence is requested as a kids activity in Hoi An? Yes we have.
Admittedly, as with the above photography exhibition, Reaching Out Tea House isn’t an obvious choice and you may perhaps want to give this one a miss if you’re visiting Hoi An with a toddler (those fragile, ornamental tea pots on display everywhere may give you heart palpitations). But, for older kids (ours were 9 and 10) you may be surprised of the calming effect this place has on them. We also felt it was a valuable experience for the boys.
Do note that it is rather pricey here for Vietnam. Prices are very much geared to tourists and are even quoted in USD. We spent VND440,000 on tea, coffee, two juices and cookies.
8. Cooking class
Traditional cooking classes are available at almost every restaurant in Vietnam. Just walk in and ask, or enquire at your accommodation. Alternatively, you can pre-book cooking classes here (which includes a basket boat ride).
You will be taken around a local market to purchase the ingredients and then back to the kitchen to cook up your masterpiece. Afterwards you then get to enjoy a meal cooked by you!
Cooking classes are something that we have experienced around the world, including Essaouira, Morocco, and Koh Lanta, Thailand. On this occasion we decided against it as we were quoted around £80 for a family cooking class in Hoi An. But if you have budding chefs in the family, this would be a fantastic family activity in Hoi An.
9. Thanh Ha Pottery Village
Another crafting activity kids can do (and adults) is pottery making. Here you get to create a small clay pot using a spinning wheel and then paint it after it’s dried in the kiln (or rather, microwave).
Head over to Thanh Ha Pottery Village, which is just a ten minute Grab ride from Hoi An Old Town. This town is known for traditional pottery making from terracotta clay taken from the nearby riverbeds.
Whilst you can do pottery making in Thanh Ha Pottery Museum (pay to enter), we recommend walking around the laneways of the small village and choosing a shop to craft at. All shops are pretty much the same, although the ones further away from the main road will get less custom (best to venture to these). Expect to pay around VND50,000 per person.
A novel way to get back to Hoi An after your pottery making is to take a boat. Walk down to the river and to the left you will find a sign offering boat trips. We paid VND250,000 for a boat back to Hoi An, which took 25 minutes and dropped us right in the centre.
10. An Bang Beach
A beach day is always a win with kids. And one of the reasons why we enjoyed our time in Hoi An was that we were able to balance cultural days with a day at the beach.
The best beach to head to near Hoi An with kids is An Bang Beach. Get a Grab to Aira An Bang Garden Restaurant & Bar and walk down the track to the beach. If you take a left at the beach, this will lead you to a quieter area.
There are loungers to rent and restaurants serving food and drink. The beach is clean and the sea warm. Surfing is sometimes an option here, but the waves were pretty flat for our visit. Mui Ne had better waves for surfing at the time of our visit (July/August).
The sand can get very hot here and our boys travel with aqua shoes like this.
An Bang can get rather busy, especially later in the day as the sun is setting. If you want a quieter beach option, there is also Coconut Beach. Here the eating and drinking options are limited.
11. Hoi An Memories Show
The Hoi An Memories Show is Vietnam’s largest art show, where 500 local performers take over the outdoor stage in tradition dress to present the 400-year history of Hoi An.
Shows run every day from 8pm to 9pm, although it’s recommended to arrive 15 minutes early as people are not allowed to enter after the show begins. We would actually suggest getting there even earlier as seats are not allocated.
The ticket price is high for Vietnam, but this a very professional and impressive show with state of the art lighting, special effects, and set design. The story is in Vietnamese with English subtitles projected onto a screen. The storyline will probably wash over the kids, but the spectacle of the event will impress them.
12. Day trip to My Son Temples
My Son Sanctuary is a collection of Shaiva Hindu temple ruins that were built between the 4th and 14th century and are an easy day trip from Hoi An. Think of it as a mini Angkor Wat. However, much of the architecture here was damaged by US bombings in the war over a single week (you can still see the huge craters made by the bombs around the temples) and some of the renovation work is not quite in keeping.
Expectations need to be lowered if you have been to Angkor Wat, but it’s still fascinating, and the thick, jungle backdrop is a fantastic setting. We loved it, and it’s also far more manageable for kids than Angkor Wat.
A small buggy takes you from the ticket office to the main entrance, from where you perform a self-guided loop around the temples. Expect to spend about an hour here and bring plenty of water as there’s little shade and it can get very hot during your visit.
My Son Temples are about a one hour drive from the city. Many people visit on a tour, but as a family, it’s easier and more cost effective to arrange a return trip with a Grab driver (we paid VND1,000,000).
13. VinWonders Nam Hội An
Just south of Hoi An is VinWonders. This is a huge themepark with rides, a safari, and waterpark, which opened in 2018. It’s a fantastic day out, although do try and time your visit for a weekday and not in school holidays (easier said than done, I know).
The 25 minute boat ride around the safari park is a unique way to spot the animals (tigers, elephants, gibbons, monkeys, kangaroos, gazelles, hippopotamus, giraffe, deer, camel) and a great way to start your day. Then move onto the amusement park area. Do keep in mind that there are height restrictions on some rides (1.3m) and that rides are rather on the tame side (this isn’t the place for big thrill-seekers).
Get changed into your swim gear and finish your day with a visit to the waterpark, which has 10 different play areas, including a wave pool, a lazy river and slides.
If you are hanging around later in evening, there’s a musical fountain show at 7:30pm lasting 20 minutes, and if you need a break from the heat under the aircon, head to the Castle to watch a 4D film.
Click here to pre-purchase your ticket.
14. Cham Islands Day Tour
The Cham Islands are a cluster of islands just a few kilometres off the coast of Hoi An. These beautiful, laid-back islands makes for a perfect day trip from Hoi An, especially if you need a quick respite from the hustle and bustle of the Old Town.
The boat trip out to the islands is idyllic, particularly if you’re visiting on a clear day when the waves are small and the water a deep shade of blue. Snorkelling and swimming are popular in these parts, but be careful of jellyfish which can be a constant nuisance. Check with locals before you book to see what the current situation is, otherwise spend your time visiting fishing villages or relaxing on the golden sandy beach.
15. Take a day trip to Danang
The nearby city of Danang is sometimes overlooked by visitors to Hoi An, other than as a transport hub. It actually makes for an interesting day trip from the city.
Highlights include Ba Na Hills, Non Nuoc Pagoda, Marble Mountains and the 666m long Dragon Bridge which breathes fire each weekend evening at 9pm. However, be prepared for crowds here, Ba Na Hills and Marble Mountains are especially busy with tour groups.
The riverfront in Danang is lined with plenty of bars and restaurants and is a relaxing place to enjoy a spot of lunch, either on land or onboard one of the many river cruises which sail up and down the Han River, and the beaches here are excellent.
To get to Danang, it’s easy enough to organise a tour or with separate Grab journeys, otherwise consider a motorbike day tour that can be extended to include a ride along the iconic Hai Van Pass. Alternatively, combine Danang with onward travels to Hue on a Hoi An to Hue motorbike day tour, which is exactly what we did!
Where we stayed in Hoi An with kids
We tend to book accommodation as we go along, sometimes one or two weeks in advance, sometimes just a day or two.
In the case of Hoi An, we actually booked our accommodation about two months in advance. This was because we had planned to stay for 8 days in the peak season and wanted something special to relax at.
After a lot of research, we booked Chez Mimosa Hoi An. Set amongst the rice paddies, just outside Hoi An, with a stunning balcony overlooking the countryside and a lovely pool, plus free bicycle hire, it looked perfect. In fact, a follower on Instagram messaged us to say they had stayed here an absolutely loved it.
However, it didn’t work out as planned.
After our overnight train from Nha Trang to Danag, we arrived at our pre-booked accommodation in Hoi An via taxi. We were told the room was available, but as we were four hours before check-in we were asked to pay an extra 50% of the room rate to check-in early. The room was ready, we were tired after a long journey, and we’d booked for 8 nights. I was a tad miffed they were trying to squeeze more money out of us, so we went into the Old Town to kill time before check-in.
We returned after 12pm to check in, but I had a strong gut feeling that we should check the room before we paid (for budget accommodations in Vietnam, the general rule is that you pay on arrival).
Good thing we did check the room as they tried to give us a different room to what we booked! They had double booked us! But we could have this lesser room until our booked accommodation was available in a few days. No thank you.
So we left.
This happened to us a few times last year on our Southeast Asia travels, but it was a first for Vietnam. If it were just a night or two, we wouldn’t be so fussed. But the plan here was to stay 8 nights.
We then looked around a few other accommodations in person, just like those backpacking days pre-kids. You know, where you walk into a place and actually ask to see the room in person? It was actually rather fun! We were searching by available properties on booking.com and then turning up in person. Staff were very confused we didn’t have a booking.
And that’s how we found an absolute gem, Bon Sand Villa & Spa Hoi An. This place was cheaper than the one we originally booked, is tucked down a small lane on an island on the river and beautifully peaceful. The family who run it are beautiful humans and we loved the balcony view over the river. What a special find!
We have a family room (two double beds) with balcony and ensuite on the second floor. Breakfast was also included in the room rate. There is no restaurant for dinner, but the owners are happy for you to order in (and can recommend places and order for you).
Where to eat in Hoi An with kids
Once we find a place we like to eat, we tend to return again and again. Eating out with kids can be challenging, what with trying to find somewhere with a suitable menu, reasonable prices and friendly staff. What’s more, in many tourist centres in Vietnam, there’s little to differentiate the restaurants and cafes, especially at the lower to mid range of the market, so there are diminishing returns in constantly trying somewhere new.
Hoi An very much fits into this style of eating out. On either side of the river near the An Hoi Bridge, you can take your pick from the livelier options on the south bank, or quieter (and slightly more upscale) competitors on the northern side. Travelling families might find the options on the north side to be a better fit, but the opposite bank is more fun and still family-friendly in the afternoon and early-evening.
We found our favourite place slightly further along the riverbank away from the louder venues. We preferred the more relaxed atmosphere here and loved the menu options and cheap bottles of Saigon beer. After the first couple of visits, the owners began to recognise us and it eventually felt like we were eating at home. In the same block, there are a collection of five or six very similar places, so feel free to spread your custom around. Note that most of these places are cash only and some of them offer cooking classes if you fancy joining in with the fun.
Getting around Hoi An
You’ve probably heard how fantastic Hoi An is for cycling around. This works if you have toddlers or young kids who are small and light enough to sit on the back of your bike, or older children who can safely ride an adult bike.
With our boys aged 9 and 10, cycling around Hoi An wasn’t an option. There were no bikes available at our accommodation to fit them, and even if there were, they were in bad condition, with no helmets, and the Vietnamese drivers (whether in a car or on a motorbike) are nuts, even on the seemingly quiet laneways. There’s an expectation that smaller forms of transportation (e.g. bikes) will get out of the way, and drivers are programmed to sound their horns and force their way through. Our boys are used to the quiet lanes and considerate drivers in France, so this felt like a non-starter for us.
So we did what we always do in Southeast Asia and used Grab. It’s just so convenient, even when we were staying outside town down the narrow streets of Cam Nam Island. We never needed to wait for more than a few minutes, drivers are punctual and polite, and there are no worries about fares or directions.
How to get to and from Hoi An
Hoi An is very much on the beaten track and is a popular stop on most Vietnam itineraries. The town itself isn’t as well connected as you might expect and the majority of visitors actually arrive in Danang which is only a thirty minute drive to Hoi An. Check with your hotel as many of them offer a free transfer service from Danang to Hoi An, otherwise a Grab taxi is affordable and easy to arrange.
Danang has its own international airport and is surprisingly well-served by flights from cities including Hanoi, HCMC, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Seoul, and Singapore.
If you’re already in Vietnam and would prefer to avoid flying, the best option is to jump on the train. Whilst the railway line bypasses Hoi An, Danang is a major stop on the North-South railway line. From Hanoi or Saigon, there are regular overnight sleeper trains which arrive into town at sensible times. Alternatively, shorter trips from places such as Nha Trang or Hue are equally convenient.
Some bus companies do offer direct services to Hoi An but they aren’t always the best quality vehicles and are more aimed at the budget traveller. On top of this, many of the sleeper buses run overnight, which isn’t recommended if you’re travelling with kids. If for some reason you can’t book the train and need to take the bus, it’s usually better to head to Danang, which is served by more frequent services at more family-friendly times.
Whether you arrive by air, train or bus, be aware that taxi touts sometimes swarm around new arrivals in Danang and offer vastly inflated transport options to Hoi An. Even if you haven’t already done so, it’s easiest to tell them you have arranged onward transport or that your hotel are collecting you.
Best time to visit Hoi An
Admittedly, we probably didn’t visit Hoi An at the best time of year. It was July, swelteringly hot and school holidays for most of the world.
We live in Penang, and so you’d think that we were used to the heat. We are to some extent. But when the mercury is hitting 40°C, plus the humidity and crowds, it can all feel a bit too much. So if you do visit at this time of year, get out early in the day and enjoy the balmy evenings. Afternoons need to be spent either at the beach or pool.
The wet season is September through to January. This is a time when the river can burst its banks and some buildings get flooded. However, this is a time when significantly fewer tourists visit, and is a good time to escape the crowds.
The best time to visit is actually January to March when the weather is slightly milder, the humidity lower and a slightly lower tourist season. However, this is the tropics, so you can still expect hot days and rain during this time.
Final thoughts on visiting Hoi An with kids
Sometimes, it’s only when we’re writing up a blog post that we truly realise just how much there is to see and do in a place, and that’s certainly true in the case of Hoi An. If you’re visiting Hoi An with kids, there’s no shortage of activities to keep you occupied and you’ll need to choose wisely. We know from experience just how much the kids need a day or two relaxing by the pool as well as sightseeing and craft-making.
If your itinerary allows, try to budget for at least a week here. There’s no question Hoi An is busy (and only getting busier), with the tour groups pushing the city to its limits, especially around the riverside streets on a weekend evening. But it’s still manageable, with enough space to relax and wander around once you know when to visit and where to go. When you find that perfect moment, with the river flowing past and the lanterns dancing gently in the wind, Hoi An can still remind you just why it became so popular in the first place.
You may also like to read:
Halong Bay with kids: the BEST cruise for families
Hoi An to Hue motorbike day tour
Riding a Vietnam sleeper train: what to expect and how to book