Sapa is our favourite destination in Vietnam and we spent 5 nights at a homestay in the countryside. Here we share our top tips and things to do in Sapa with kids, including details of an independent trek.
It would have been a huge mistake but, in the days leading up to our Sapa visit, we were considering giving it a miss and heading elsewhere. There are so many scare stories about how crazy busy Sapa is, overrun with tourists and with any charm the town once had all but a distant memory. It didn’t sound like our sort of place.
Fast-forward a few days and that sense of trepidation was replaced with relief that we’d ignored the warnings and opted to check it out for ourselves. Little did we know that our favourite destination in Vietnam was waiting for us above the clouds at the end of the long, winding road from Lao Cai.
That’s not to say Sapa isn’t busy with tourists. It undoubtedly is, with the town centre and tourist village of Cat Cat processing a steady stream of visitors, most of whom stay in hotels near the lake. Once you step away from the crowds and venture into the surrounding countryside, the pace of life slows down dramatically, with rice paddies, mountain ranges and water buffalo replacing tour buses and crowds. After a hectic six weeks exploring the rest of Vietnam, the peace and quiet of countryside living was exactly what we needed.
Here we share our top things to do in Sapa with kids, including details of a trek through the countryside that you can do without a tour or guide, plus where to stay and our personal recommendations for restaurants in Sapa.
Vietnam with kids travel guide
Your comprehensive guide to travelling Vietnam with kids, including accommodation suggestions and an itinerary, from a family that spent 45 day overlanding from HCMC to Hanoi.
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Things to do in Sapa with kids
Most people visit Sapa to go trekking. Indeed, this is a superb way to experience the local villages and countryside, but if you have a few days to experience Sapa with kids, we also recommend a motorbike tour to Love Waterfall and an incredible lookout point, as well as the cable car and trekking to the summit of Fansipan (3,147 metres).
1. Enjoy an independent trek through local villages and rice paddies
READ OUR GUIDE: Sapa trekking without a guide
Trekking is one of the best ways to experience the countryside around Sapa. You will see signs for trekking companies everywhere and locals will approach you in the main town to ask if you need a guide.
We did initially look into getting a trekking guide, but once we discovered this would cost USD40 per person, we decided to go it alone. We love hiking as a family, we’re confident in map reading, and in all honesty, we always prefer to experience things independently.
It was the Dad at the homestay we were staying at who explained to us that you really don’t need a guide for trekking in Sapa and that footpaths are shown on Google Maps. He pointed out a rough route on our phone for us and the next morning we set out!
We’ve mapped out the route for you on Google Maps (see the map below) so you can follow. It starts from our homestay, Stone Paradise Homestay, which is easy enough to get a Grab to if you’re not staying there. In fact, you may want to start this Sapa trek a little further up the road from the homestay.
The trek is split into two parts as we split it across two days. Part 1 is 5km and Part 2 is 6km. If you’re short on time in Sapa and have just one day to do a trek, then it’s possible to do Part 1 and Part 2 in one go.
There’s a steep incline up to the middle point on the map, but aside from that, this Sapa trekking route is mostly flat or downhill leading you through hill villages and alongside rice paddies.
The walk is absolutely stunning, but there are a few things to note:
- You will come across motorbikes along the lanes you are walking along. This is how most locals get around. The only section they felt like a nuisance is the walk into Cat Cat, after this they were infrequent.
- The walk takes you through Cat Cat Village, a very pretty hilltribe village that has now become quite the tourist village. Souvenir stalls line every footpath and there’s an entry fee of VND150,000 per person over 1.3m to walk through the village. People under 1.3m pay VND70,000. Our 10 year-old is almost the same height as most Sapa locals and we had to pay full price for him.
- Bring cash to spend at local villages along the way, be it for drinks and a snack or a souvenir to take home. As we didn’t pay for a trekking guide, we felt it right to make sure we spent money with locals along the way (the boys were more than happy to assist in getting a drink and/or ice-cream every 1km!).
- Grab is fantastic around Sapa and taxis will come and collect you along narrow winding lanes that feel like they’re in the middle of nowhere. You will have no problems getting a Grab to or from the start, middle, and end points on the map.
2. Take a motorbike tour to villages, waterfalls and view points
Trekking is a great way to explore Sapa, but it you want to cover more ground, then consider hopping on a motorbike.
Whilst you can rent motorbikes around Sapa, families may be more comfortable riding pillion with a local. Indeed, some of the backcountry roads are in a seriously bad condition and you really need to be comfortable with a bike to navigate them.
We did look into a motorbike tour with a local company, but they quoted USD270 for our family! Once again the Dad at the homestay came to our rescue and he rounded up some of his mates to take us on a motorbike tour for VND500,000 per person (USD80 for our family). This was just a half day trip (10am to 2pm) where we were driven to stunning viewpoints and to Love Waterfall.
Love Waterfall really was a highlight of our time in Sapa with kids. It’s a 45 minute walk from the entrance to the waterfall where you can swim in its freezing cold waters. Make sure you bring a towel and your swim gear.
The last stop on our Sapa motorbike tour was Lonely Tree. Absolutely incredible views. We’re told that this is an excellent sunset point too.
3. Ride the cable car to Fansipan and trek to the summit
READ OUR GUIDE: Visiting Fansipan, Sapa, via cable car
Click here pre-book your cable car ticket via Klook.
Sapa is surrounded by the soaring Hoang Lien Son mountain range, with the summit of Fansipan reaching over three thousand metres into the clouds. It’s the tallest mountain in the region formerly known as Indochina (the modern-day countries of Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia), with only Indonesia and Myanmar boasting higher peaks within Southeast Asia.
Not so long ago, a trip to the summit would involve a multi-day hike but it can now be achieved via a twenty-minute cable-car ride. Whilst this is no doubt handy for tourists, some of the tranquillity and sense of achievement is now missing from the summit, but it still ranks as an essential Sapa experience.
The cable-car price is almost as high as the summit itself, clocking in at VND800,000 (USD32) for adults and VND550,000 (USD22) for children under 1.4m. The 1.4m height limit is very strictly enforced, with no leeway or interest shown in applying any reductions.
For our family of four (our eldest was above the 1.4m mark) it cost us £83. It’s not cheap and was one of the most expensive activities we did in Vietnam.
Crystal clear days are something of a rarity in Sapa, but try and keep an eye on the weather forecast to ensure the best views. Even on a seemingly cloudless day, the mist and clouds can sweep across the summit at a moment’s notice, but it never ruins a visit. There’s enough to keep you occupied at the top even if the views are obscured, including temples and the large Buddha statues.
Access is either via a Grab taxi straight to the cable-car station, or you can take the tourist train from Sapa town (ten minutes) for an extra VND100,000. The cable-car, train and ticket office are well organised and you can even pay via credit card, which is something of a novelty in Vietnam. The cable-car cabins are often filled to capacity, with space for up to twenty passengers. It can get noisy when a tour group is onboard but, aside from getting out to walk, you’re kind of stuck. When you depart the cable-car, there are numerous steps to navigate to reach the summit, although you can take another small train at extra cost to cut out some of the steps.
Finally, as the summit is well above the height that altitude sickness can take hold (usually around 2,500m), you should take care when you alight from the cable-car, particularly for the first few minutes. None of our group reported any symptoms (other than shortness of breath on the many steps), but make sure you’re aware of the symptoms and descend ASAP if required.
Where to stay in Sapa
Where we stayed: Stone Paradise Homestay
Our accommodation in Sapa is what made our visit to this region of Vietnam.
After hearing stories of how many tour buses roll into Sapa each day, we booked a homestay we found on booking.com fifteen mins drive away from the main town and what a gem we found! So much of Vietnam had felt busy with other tourists over our six weeks of travel so far, and the big open mountain views from our room was the perfect antidote.
Stone Paradise Homestay is run by a lovely local family and we stayed for five nights. We loved how the Dad, Hieu, helped us to explore Sapa independently by showing us trekking routes on Google Maps (see above) and we had a fantastic first day exploring on the motorbikes with him and his mates. It was very refreshing to arrive at an accommodation in Vietnam and not have someone doing the hard sell on us with tours.
We had a family room on the top floor with two double beds and two futons on the floor (so theoretically the room could sleep six). The private bathroom was across the terrace and had a surprisingly good shower.
The road up to the homestay is in a terrible condition, but we had no problems in ordering Grab taxis to get in and around Sapa. Meal options are slightly limited at the homestay, so it was good to be able to get into Sapa easily where there is a fantastic range of restaurants.
Where to eat in Sapa
Most of our time in the main town of Sapa was spent eating. Mornings would be spent doing an activity (trekking, motorbike tour, or Fansipan) and then we would get a Grab into Sapa around 3pm for a big meal, and then pick up snacks for a light dinner later in the evening to have back at the homestay.
Whilst we love Vietnamese food, after six weeks of backpacking Vietnam, we were in need of some variety in our diet. Sapa offers a fantastic range of restaurants and a few of our favourite were:
- Pi’s Kitchen – superb woodfired pizzas, perhaps the best pizza on all our Vietnam travels
- Ganesh Sapa Indian Restaurant – a south Indian restaurant serving spicy curries and huge naan
- Le Petit Gecko – a French restaurant with terraces overlooking the square
- ChuSu Kitchen – excellent choice for local Vietnamese food with good vegetarian options
There are a handful of convenience stores dotted around Sapa. But if you want fresh fruit and veg, the best place to go is to Sapa Market.
Whilst in Sapa itself, it’s worthwhile having a look at the church and enjoying a stroll around the lake.
How to get to Sapa
Sapa is the furthest northwest that most travellers to Vietnam will venture. Sitting three hundred kilometres from Hanoi (but only 60km from China), it’s easily reached on a well-trodden tourist route, with most people arriving either by sleeper bus or overnight sleeper train.
Our recommended route is via the Sao Viet sleeper buses which make the trip from Hanoi in about six hours, including a handy twenty-minute stop at their own service station en-route. Tickets can be booked via the Baolau site where you can choose seats and pay using international credit cards. E-tickets are sent as a pdf to your inbox and can be used to board the bus (no need to print out, displaying on your phone is fine).
These buses are known as ‘VIP Cabin’ and only have 24 beds on board, so they’re noticeable wider and longer than you’ll find on other sleeper buses. It makes for a comfortable journey with free water, WIFI, AC, pillows and blankets. Note that you’re not supposed to bring your own food onboard, and the rule is often strictly enforced. There’s also a toilet onboard in emergencies.
Another popular option with tourists is the overnight sleeper train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, followed by a 1.5 hour transfer to Sapa.
In our opinion, whilst the sleeper train is a comfortable option, the timings make for an inconvenient journey. The infrequent trains depart from Hanoi at around 10pm, arriving into Lao Cai at 6am. As a travelling family, these are perhaps the worst possible times for a journey because it requires killing time in Hanoi before departure, late bedtime, no views from the train window, followed by an extremely early alarm call, additional transfer, then the risk of not being able to check-in to your Sapa hotel for several hours. On top of all this, the fare is expensive (double the cost of the sleeper bus), although you do save on a hotel bill.
Our advice is to take the sleeper bus around 9am from Hanoi and enjoy the spectacular scenery towards Sapa, arriving at 3pm, the perfect time to check-in to your hotel.
Best time to visit Sapa
Unlike much of Southeast Asia, Vietnam experiences the typical four seasons (Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter). Snow is not uncommon in December and January. But although temperatures can reach 25°C in the summer months of July and August, these are also the months with the highest rainfall. Indeed, some people advise not visiting Sapa in July and August.
However, it was August when we visited and we thought it was pretty perfect. The cooler temperatures were very welcome after steamy Ninh Binh and Hanoi, and the terraces were a bright, luscious green. This is also the high season in Vietnam for tourists and although Sapa town was busy, it felt beautifully quiet tucked away in the countryside in our homestay.
It’s also worth making note of harvest timings. In spring, the rice terraces are being watered and planted, by summer they’re bright green, and by autumn they’re turning a beautiful, rusty-yellow, before being harvested. By winter, the terraces are rather bare and not as visually stunning. Although winter is a good time to experience a proper winter in the tropics for anyone missing the cold.
Final thoughts on visiting Sapa with kids
Sapa is one of the most iconic and popular tourist destinations in Vietnam and, at times, it can feel busy. The trick to enjoying your visit to Sapa with kids is to get away from the crowded town centre and explore the much quieter countryside, where family-friendly homestays and relaxing days can be enjoyed.
When you’re feeling refreshed, you’ll be in a much better frame of mind to re-join the crowds and experience the food, sights and atmosphere of Sapa town. The tourist village of Cat Cat is interesting for people-watching and souvenir shopping, but the real highlights of your time in Sapa with kids will be out on a motorbike tour or following our self-guided walk amongst the rice paddies where often, the only company you’ll have is water buffalo and the occasional local buzzing past on a moped.
We’re so pleased we ignored the warnings and ventured over to Sapa. The wonderful region, scenery, and people ended up being the highlight of our visit to Vietnam.
You may also like to read:
Riding a Vietnam sleeper train: what to expect and how to book
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Hanoi with kids: top 10 things to do and where to stay