Well-placed on the tourist trail, Ninh Binh offers a relaxing mix of river tours and downtime, and is the ideal place to slow down for a few days, whether you’ve just left the hustle of Hanoi, or have spent a busy few weeks ticking off the sights along the coast.
Ninh Binh is split into the two distinct areas of Tam Coc and Trang An, both of which offer something for families visiting Ninh Binh with kids. Most families spend their time relaxing by the river and booking onto one of the beautiful boat tours that leave from either side of town.
The town isn’t full of activities but most people come to realise that’s part of its charm; above all, Ninh Binh’s vibe is relaxed, the sort of place where the most popular activity is sitting back and letting a day or two pass gently by.
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Day 1 in Ninh Binh
On day 1, our recommendation is to take a boat trip from Trang An. It’s a picturesque stretch of water to drift along and is usually quieter than neighbouring Tam Coc. That’s not to say Trang An is a hidden secret, you can see from the elaborate queuing area that it too deals with huge numbers of tourists, so try and arrive as early as possible in the morning.
There’s no shade on the boats although umbrellas are provided. You’ll end up using them throughout the tour, at least until you enter the cave system when the temperature drops significantly. Remember to duck down when the boat glides into the caves as the ceiling is frequently only a few inches from your heads. It’s lots of fun but health and safety are something of an afterthought, so do reiterate the dangers to your kids.
If you’ve managed to avoid the crowds then cruising along the calm river with limestone peaks framing your view is one of those ‘pinch me’ travel moments. Your guide will offer a few options and routes to choose from but, aside from asking for the quieter version, we let her decide on our behalf.
Along the way, you’re dropped off at beautiful riverside temples, some of which require climbing a few dozen stone steps. You can pick and choose which ones you visit and how long to spend at each. Small food and drink stands are available at each stop.
For the boys, the highlight was definitely inside the caves, crouching down to avoid the ceiling and trying to remember the difference between stalagmites and stalactites. They even got the chance to help row the boat, although we’re not sure if they helped or hindered.
As you return to the dock, you may spot the flotilla of other tour boats coming towards you. Now’s the time to be grateful that you’re not on a tour and instead had the river largely to yourself.
We took Tour 1 (we were told that this is the quieter tour), which lasts around three hours, depending how long you decide to spend at the various temples. The cost is VND250,000 for over 1.3m and VN120,000 for under 1.3m and you can pay by credit card or cash. Tips at the end are appreciated.
Afterwards, order a Grab to take you back into town. Trang An has some quiet local restaurants serving a mix of western and Asian dishes, otherwise head over to Tam Coc if you want more choice and a slightly livelier atmosphere. Some of the bars and restaurants have a fun backpacker vibe but are still welcoming of families. It’s an ideal spot to crack open a beer, pull up a chair with a view of the river, and play cards or board games with the kids.
Incidentally, in Tam Coc, T-Pub has the best chips in Southeast Asia, but avoid the draught beer.
Day 2 in Ninh Binh
If yesterday was all about viewing Ninh Binh from water level, today lets you experience the surrounding countryside from an altogether higher vantage point. Mua Cave, and the stunning limestone peaks that rise above it, is a popular excursion that you can easily arrange independently.
Located just a few kilometres outside of town (book a Grab to bring you here), the caves themselves are interesting enough to visit but the real attraction is the viewpoint from the peaks above, reached via five hundred steps. It’s best to arrive early in the morning when you stand more chance to avoiding the heat as it can be quite a tiring climb otherwise. The views across the countryside are a mixture of flat fields and dramatic limestone peaks that rise randomly into the distance.
If your kids are slightly older, the roads around Ninh Binh are ideal for cycling and you can usually hire/borrow bikes from your hotel. The standard of upkeep and roadworthiness do vary, and it’s rare to find smaller bikes for kids, so make sure they’re safe and comfortable before setting off. The roads are quiet but, when cars do appear, they’re not especially considerate to cyclists and can pass quite close by. Alternatively, if your kids are very young, they can ride on the back in a seat, and it’s common to find these attached to bikes in Vietnam.
You’re likely to be quite tired after this full day so you’ve all earned some time chilling, either in the hotel pool or heading back to Tam Coc and its bars and restaurants.
Where to stay in Ninh Binh
We stayed at Trang An Family Homestay.
If you’ve been in Vietnam a while, it’ll feel very similar to other places you’ve stayed. It’s a quiet place, although can get busy with domestic visitors at weekends, otherwise it’s popular with families and independent travellers.
The highlight is the central pool, ideal for a dip after a hot day sightseeing. It’s run by a local family who are friendly but speak almost no English, so don’t expect much assistance with tour bookings or onward travel assistance.
The small restaurant serves local food with the standard options although there are better places to eat only a few minutes walk away. Breakfast (as with most places in Vietnam) is very basic but is usually included in the room rate.
How to get to and from Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh is on the north-south railway line and the first/last stop from Hanoi. If this is where you’re coming from or going to, the train is by far the best option (and you’ll get to see Train Street as you arrive into Hanoi). The journey takes just under three hours, and there’s a morning or afternoon train.
Ninh Binh station is one of the better ones in Vietnam, fairly relaxed with information boards, seating and air-conditioning.
Heading south, most travellers are either heading to Phong Nha or Hue. The train is also a good option here, with a couple of overnight options reaching Hue at sensible times in the morning, ideal for families travelling with kids.
For Phong Nha, you can take the train to Dong Hoi and take the one-hour journey to Phong Nha in a taxi, or bite the bullet and take a sleeper bus. The advantage of the bus is that it takes you direct from Ninh Binh to the main street in Phong Nha, avoiding any need for transfers. It’s a long trip (eight hours) but the sleeper buses are comfortable and affordable (although avoid Duc Duong Bus company).
We’d suggest using Baolau to book trains, and 12Go for buses.
Final thoughts on visiting Ninh Binh with kids
Ninh Binh is another of those Vietnamese places that has adorned so many Instagram reels, it might feel familiar when you first arrive. Sitting back on a boat, umbrella in hand, as you’re rowed along the serene river is a magical experience, with the tree-covered limestone peaks only adding to the sense of occasion. Travelling around Vietnam with kids can occasionally be a tiring experience, and a few days in Ninh Binh acts as the perfect tonic.
Its proximity to Hanoi and the main railway line means Ninh Binh is always busy with tourists but you can mitigate this to a large extent by avoiding tours and getting out early. Grab taxis are easy to book and they help you travel around Ninh Binh independently.
The streets of Tam Coc are ideal for some family downtime, especially if you find a quiet restaurant near the river. There’s a good mix of families and backpackers enjoying the atmosphere and it’s a fun place to wind down after your river cruise. Don’t forget to try the chips at T-Pub!
But above all, Ninh Binh is a place to relax, recharge and enjoy some well-earned downtime before you embark on the next stage of your Vietnam adventure.
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