Planning a family trip to Indonesia? Our six-week itinerary takes you from the chaos of Jakarta and volcanoes of Java to the beaches of Bali and diving around Lombok, all without taking a single internal flight.
Six weeks, three islands and one of our best summers ever! The variety was a huge part of it; chaotic cities, ancient temples, volcanoes, rice paddies, jungle, beaches and incredible diving across Java, Bali and Lombok.
We’d previously dipped our toes into Indonesia with a trip to Sumatra, but the rest of the country was completely new to us. We travelled in July and August and had brilliant weather throughout, with temperatures noticeably cooler than we’re used to at home in Penang.
Each island brought something different. Java was busy, cultural and volcanic; Bali was all about rice fields, surfing and hanging out with friends; while Lombok gave us beautiful beaches, fantastic diving and a much slower pace.
We also travelled the entire route without taking a single internal flight, using trains, ferries, buses and local transfers instead. You could do this itinerary much faster, but we prefer to slow travel, especially when we’ve got six weeks. Constantly packing and moving on gets exhausting, so we built in plenty of time to actually enjoy each place and relax.
There’s one change we’d make to our route: we’d skip Kuta in Lombok and stay in Selong Belanak instead (we explain why further down in our itinerary). Other than that, we’d recommend this exact route for other families.
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Our route
Our route connected the three Indonesian islands of Java, Bali and Lombok, flying into Jakarta, out of Lombok, and travelling overland in between.
Java was particularly easy to navigate by train. We used the country’s fantastic rail network throughout (using this guide for Indonesia train times), including the Whoosh high-speed train, the only high-speed rail service in Southeast Asia. Ferries then connected us between the islands, while on Bali and Lombok we mostly relied on drivers, usually Grab, the popular Southeast Asian e-hailing app. The exception was Kuta in Lombok, where Grab is banned so we instead had to rely on inflated tourist taxis (slightly annoying).
For each destination, we’ve included where we stayed, how we got there and links for booking.
Most of our time was spent exploring the much larger island of Java, which gave us the greatest variety of experiences (and was our favourite island of the three). Our 6-week itinerary broke down as follows:
- Java: 25 days – Jakarta to Banyuwangi
- Bali: 9 days – Seseh and Tampaksiring/Ubud
- Lombok: 8 days – Kuta Lombok and Gili Air
This balance worked really well for us, giving Java plenty of time while still leaving enough time to slow things down with some beach and island time towards the end.
How to get around at each destination
For getting around at each destination, we mostly used Grab, and it worked brilliantly, particularly in Java. You can even book an hourly driver through the app for IDR 75,000 an hour, which is useful when you want to visit several places rather than book individual journeys.
Bali was a little different. Traffic congestion around the southwest of the island, linking the main tourist hotspots, is horrendous, and it can be painfully slow getting around by car. Ubud has the same problem. Scooters are much more efficient as they can nip around the traffic and down the side roads, which is why so many Western tourists hire them (often without shirts or helmets!).
We don’t have scooter licences (yet!), so we opted to book individual scooters through the Grab app instead. Our boys are now 11 and 12 and are used to using Grab cars back home in Penang, so this worked really well for our family of four. With younger kids, we’d have sucked it up and used Grab cars or a private driver (which you can arrange through your accommodation).
Kuta in Lombok was more frustrating. We organised a driver to take us from the ferry terminal to Kuta, but once there, you’re at the whim of negotiating inflated tourist taxis through the local taxi touts. There’s very much a cartel-like system, and in hindsight we wished we’d had our driving licences with us so we could have hired a car. If we did this trip again, we’d definitely hire one. Once you’re outside the main tourist area of Kuta, Grab works perfectly again (we used it to get from the Gili Air ferry terminal to the airport).
Best time of year to visit Indonesia
We visited throughout July and August, and the weather was pretty much perfect; some of the best we’ve experienced across all our travels in Southeast Asia over the years. Blue skies, very little rain and pleasantly cooler temperatures than we’re used to in Penang.
The downside is that July and August are peak season, so accommodation prices rise and the better-value places get booked up quickly. Gili Air, for instance, was completely booked up a month before we arrived (we booked three months in advance). May to September is generally the best time to travel around Java, Bali and Lombok, with April and October offering a good shoulder-season compromise.
We’d avoid December to February if reliable weather is important. This is the wettest part of the year, with heavier rain, more humid conditions and a greater chance of disrupted plans, particularly for volcano trips, diving and ferry crossings. Christmas and New Year are also particularly expensive and busy.
Indonesia visas
For our six-week trip, we needed to extend our Indonesian visa from 30 to 60 days. The standard Visa on Arrival (VOA) gives eligible travellers 30 days in Indonesia, but it can be extended once for another 30 days, giving you a total stay of up to 60 days.
We applied for the e-VOA online before travelling, then extended it once we were in Indonesia. You need to apply for the extension before your initial stay expires; overstaying can result in a fine.
The process and requirements can change, so we’d strongly recommend checking the latest information directly with Indonesian Immigration’s official e-Visa website before you travel. When we travelled, we had to visit an immigration office in person to process the extension.
Booking accommodation
We booked all our accommodation in advance through Booking.com, and we’ve included links to everywhere we stayed in the itinerary breakdown below.
We’d definitely recommend booking early if you’re travelling during peak season. Gone are the days of rocking up in a destination, wandering around with your backpacks and finding somewhere suitable on arrival.
Yogyakarta, Bali and Lombok are the destinations where we’d particularly recommend booking ahead, as these are the more touristy parts of the route. Pramuka Island is another one to book well in advance, simply because there is very limited accommodation available as it’s still largely off the Western tourist trail.
Elsewhere in Java, you can be a little more relaxed. We found plenty of choice and didn’t feel the same pressure to book months ahead.
Budgeting / money
As Southeast Asian destinations go, Indonesia is one of the best-value countries we’ve travelled in. We found it notably cheaper than both Malaysia and Thailand, particularly for food, transport and accommodation.
Cash is still king, especially across Java. Bank cards aren’t widely accepted, although you’ll find them much easier to use in the more touristy destinations of Yogyakarta, Bali and Lombok. You’ll need to use ATMs regularly, and thanks to the low value of the Indonesian rupiah, you’ll often feel like you’re walking around with a ridiculous stack of notes; IDR 100,000 is only around £5. BCA was a reliable bank to use and their ATMs didn’t charge us a withdrawal fee.
Coming from Malaysia, we’re used to using the Touch ‘n Go e-wallet, and this made paying in Indonesia surprisingly easy. Touch ‘n Go can be used to scan QRIS, Indonesia’s national QR payment system, and we found it incredibly handy. It worked throughout Java, even at the tiniest little market stalls where we’d never have expected a digital payment option.
Kuta Lombok was the exception. Almost everywhere wanted cash unless we were in a swanky bar or restaurant, which was another small reminder of just how differently tourists are treated there compared with the rest of our trip.
Top tips for this Indonesia itinerary
- Book accommodation early in peak season, particularly in Yogyakarta, Bali and Lombok. Pramuka Island also has very limited accommodation, so book ahead here too.
- Always carry cash. Cards aren’t accepted everywhere, particularly in Java, at smaller local businesses, and the taxi touts in Kuta Lombok.
- Bring your own snorkel and mask. We found the hire equipment was often pretty poor quality, so having our own made a big difference.
- Pack proper cold-weather gear for the volcanoes. You can buy hats and gloves at Mount Bromo, but we really wished we’d brought thicker coats with us. It was freezing!
- Stock up on mosquito repellent and sun cream in the major cities. These can be expensive, difficult to find or completely non-existent once you’re in remote areas or on the islands.
- Download Grab and Gojek before you travel. We used Grab constantly for getting around and found it incredibly useful, particularly on Java and Bali (Gojek is just a different e-hailing app used specifically in Indonesia).
- Don’t underestimate travel days. Indonesia is a huge country, and journeys that look straightforward on a map can take much longer than expected (in Java due to distance and in Bali due to traffic). Build some breathing space into your itinerary rather than trying to cram too much into each day.
- Book Borobudur (near Yogyakarta) ahead during peak season. Entry is timed and numbers are limited, so don’t expect to turn up and simply wander in whenever you fancy. It was particularly busy when we visited.
An epic 6-week backpacking trip
Our six-week adventure took us through Java, Bali and Lombok, travelling overland and by sea from Jakarta to Lombok. Here’s how we broke down our 42 days:
| Days | Destination | Island |
|---|---|---|
| 1-3 | Jakarta | Java |
| 4-7 | Pramuka Island | Java |
| 8-10 | Bandung | Java |
| 11-16 | Yogyakarta | Java |
| 17 | Malang | Java |
| 18-22 | Batu | Java |
| 23-25 | Banyuwangi | Java |
| 26-30 | Seseh | Bali |
| 31-34 | Tampaksiring/Ubud | Bali |
| 35-38 | Kuta Lombok | Lombok |
| 39-42 | Gili Air | Lombok |
Day 1-3: Jakarta
Where we stayed: Albus by Kozystay (China Town)
To get here: we flew into Jakarta’s main airport (Soekarno–Hatta International Airport) and took a Grab directly to the hotel.
Jakarta is chaotic. We haven’t seen traffic like this since we lived in India, and it makes Bangkok and HCMC seem positively chilled! But don’t write it off as a city that’s too intense for kids. We actually found the chaos weirdly wonderful and a brilliant way to launch ourselves straight back into our travel bubble.
Spend your first day exploring on foot. The Dutch architecture of the Old Town, the puppet museum (Wayang Museum), Jakarta Cathedral, Masjid Istiqlal (tourists are allowed inside this mosque with a guide at fixed times) and Merdeka Square can all be combined into a packed day before escaping into one of the city’s enormous malls (Grand Indonesia is very impressive).
For a second day, Dufan Ancol offers a completely different experience. It’s a pretty rough-around-the-edges theme park, with exceptionally long queues and plenty of rides closed for maintenance, but Fast Track passes made a huge difference. Our resident theme-park fanatic still insists it was worth it, despite our strong suspicions otherwise.
Day 4-7: Pramuka Island
READ OUR GUIDE: Pramuka Island with Kids: Visiting Indonesia’s Thousand Islands
Where we stayed: Seribu Resort Thousand Island
To get here from Jakarta: we took a Grab to the ferry terminal (located here) and then a direct ferry to the island (90 mins). The ferry was arranged via WhatsApp, using a contact provided by our accommodation.
If you’re looking for somewhere genuinely beautiful and largely untouched by mass tourism, Pramuka Island is a bit of a gem. It’s part of the Thousand Islands and only around a 90-minute boat ride from Jakarta, yet it feels a world away.
Don’t come here expecting a long list of things to do. There’s not much beyond snorkelling, diving and enjoying the wonderfully laid-back local atmosphere, which is exactly why we loved it. There are around 20 dive sites around the island, and the boys dived every day, including a night dive, exploring by private boat with their divemaster.
Accommodation is very limited, as are food options, and there are only tiny local market stalls, so bring everything you need. Wi-Fi is patchy too, although apparently not so patchy that the boys couldn’t find 4G at 4am to watch an important football match (World Cup season).
Weekends can get busy with domestic tourists, particularly during the July to October high season, so plan accordingly.
Day 8-10: Bandung
Where we stayed: Ivory Hotel Bandung
To get here from Pramuka: we took the ferry back to the mainland, then a Grab to Halim Railway station, to then take the high-speed train from Jakarta to Bandung.
Bandung is a pleasant city for a wander (especially along Jalan Braga), but it’s the countryside around it that makes this a worthwhile stop. Head out into the surrounding hills for volcanoes, tea plantations and strawberry farms.
One of our favourite days was a trip around 1½ hours south of Bandung to Kawah Putih (White Crater), a volcanic crater sitting at 2,430m above sea level. We organised it through a lovely Grab driver we’d met the previous day, and the cool mountain air was an unexpected bonus (the jumpers even came out!).
Combine a visit to the crater with strawberry picking and a wander through the tea plantations and you’ve got a brilliant day out.
Day 11-16: Yogyakarta
Where we stayed: Puri Pangeran Hotel
To get here from Bandung: we took the direct train from Bandung to Yogyakarta
Yogyakarta is where you’ll suddenly encounter the international tourists you may barely have seen on this itinerary so far, particularly at Borobudur. Indonesia’s flagship cultural attraction and the world’s largest Buddhist temple, it’s an obvious must-see, but we didn’t love the experience. The new timed-entry system and compulsory guides create serious bottlenecks and take away some of the freedom to explore. Go on a weekday, perhaps later in the day, and lose your guide sooner than we did. It really is an impressive sight, they just haven’t quite ironed out the tourist experience yet.
We much preferred Prambanan, a large 9th-century Hindu temple complex. It’s far quieter, you can explore at your own pace, and the Segways and archery in the grounds proved popular with the boys.
But don’t miss Mount Merapi; this was our personal highlight. Exploring its foothills by Jeep, learning about the devastation caused by the 2010 eruption and seeing a tiny sliver of lava tumbling from the crater was unforgettable. Yes, we sat in the cold and darkness for an hour and a half for about five seconds of lava (we’re not sure the boys agreed it was worth it!).
Day 17: Malang
Where we stayed: Ibis Styles Malang
To get here from Yogyakarta: we took the direct train from Yogyakarta to Malang
Malang is a popular base for visiting Mount Bromo, but we chose to stay in nearby Batu instead. For us, it was just a one-day stop after the seven-hour train journey from Yogyakarta.
Our main reason for stopping was Kampung Warna-Warni Jodipan, or Colourful Village. Once described as one of Indonesia’s worst slums, the area was transformed in 2016 when university students teamed up with a local paint company and the community to paint the buildings in bright colours. Neighbouring communities soon followed. Today, you can pay 10,000 IDR to wander the colourful alleyways and take photos, but it also raises interesting questions about tourism and communities. How do residents feel about hundreds of visitors walking past their homes every day with cameras? It sparked a fascinating conversation with the boys about social media, tourism and who benefits.
For a complete contrast, finish with a walk along Ijen Boulevard, a beautiful tree-lined colonial street lined with grand Dutch-era houses. The contrast between the two areas gives you a fascinating glimpse of Malang’s different sides.
Day 18-22: Batu
Where we stayed: Family Hotel Gradia 1
To get here from Malang: we took a Grab as it’s only a 45 min drive.
Malang is the more obvious base for visiting Mount Bromo, but we chose Batu because it gave us more to do between volcano adventures. There’s Jawa Timur Park 1 (theme park with some thrilling rides) and the excellent Angkut Museum (transport museum), packed with all sorts of unusual vehicles. We also saw barely any Western tourists, which added to the appeal.
The main event, though, was Mount Bromo. But be warned, it’s a rather hardcore travel day, with a midnight start, a 2-hour Jeep ride into the foothills and a steep 2km uphill trek to the sunrise viewpoint. And despite being British, we were completely unprepared for just how cold it was. But then the sun came up, and the view was one of the most impressive we’ve ever seen. And you’re not done yet. After sunrise, it’s back into the Jeep for the 5km return trek to the crater before heading back to Batu for lunch.
Day 23-25: Banyuwangi
Where we stayed: Pondok is Oke
To get here from Batu: we took an early morning Grab back to Malang and caught the train from Malang to Banyuwangi.
Banyuwangi is the gateway to Mount Ijen, but we decided against the climb. We’d heard how busy the experience has become, and after the hardcore Mount Bromo day, another middle-of-the-night start followed by a demanding climb didn’t really appeal.
Instead, the cooler temperatures and peaceful mountain setting of our accommodation (a 1 hour drive from Banyuwangi) made it the perfect place to unwind after a month of travelling. We loved the remote location and the short walk through the local village.
The accommodation itself, however, came with a few problems: not enough beds as advertised, water that kept stopping and no hot water when it did work, no response to our messages, and a pretty awful breakfast. We could cope with all of that, but when we were told there was no food for dinner because the hosts hadn’t been able to get to the market in the (very light) rain, two hungry tween boys made the decision for us!
We checked out the following morning and spent our final night on Java at a hotel in Banyuwangi (Kokoon Hotel Banyuwangi) before crossing to Bali.
Day 26-30: Seseh, Bali
Where we stayed: Annas Villa Seseh Private Pool
To get here from Banyuwangi: we took a ferry across to Bali, and then a driver (arranged through accommodation in Banyuwangi) picked us up and drove us to our villa. We booked our ferry from Ketapang (the port in Banyuwangi) to Gilimanuk on Bali via 12Go
Bali is somewhere we’d managed to avoid for decades, partly because of its reputation for overtourism, but this trip finally gave us a reason to visit: old friends. We caught up with My Free Range Family, who moved to Bali two years ago, having last seen them when we were all based in Essaouira four years earlier.
Don’t come to Seseh expecting to tick off Bali’s biggest sights. For us, this was about slowing down, catching up and seeing the island through the eyes of friends who actually live here. We surfed and bodyboarded at Legian, snorkelled at Blue Lagoon, wandered Canggu Beach at sunset and jumped into the waves at Bias Tugel Beach.
One thing to be prepared for is the traffic. Bali’s congestion has to be seen to be believed, and journeys can take much longer than you’d expect. Pick a good base and explore from there, but allow plenty of time for getting around.
Day 31-34: Tampaksiring, Ubud, Bali
Where we stayed: Villa Esa Bagus
To get here from Seseh: we booked a Grab.
If you’re visiting Ubud, we’d strongly recommend staying outside the town itself. Our three-bedroom villa in Tampaksiring, tucked among the rice paddies 40 mins drive north of Ubud, was probably our favourite accommodation of the trip. With a private pool, views of Mount Agung and a 250m walk through the rice fields from the road, it felt a world away from busy Ubud.
We spent a day exploring Ubud itself, including the shops along Jalan Hanoman, the Campuhan Ridge Walk, Saraswati Temple and some excellent restaurants. But the real highlight was Gekko Tubing, which starts close to our accommodation and takes you through thick jungle with incredible views.
Back at the villa, rice fields stretched in every direction and there were very few tourists around. The owner was incredibly helpful, and his wife even cooked us delicious mie goreng on our final night. It’s the perfect combination of rural peace with Ubud close enough for a day out.
Day 35-38: Kuta Lombok
Where we stayed: Wave Inn
To get here from Ubud, Bali: the accommodation owner drove us to Padangbai from where we caught the slow ferry (4.5 hours) to Lembar, Lombok. A driver organised through our Kuta accommodation then drove us to Kuta. We booked our ferry from Padang Bai (the port in Bali) to Lembar (the port in Lombok) via 12Go.
Kuta Lombok wasn’t our vibe. There are definitely slices of paradise here, and the surrounding beaches are really the reason to visit, but you don’t need to peel back very far to find a very different story.
The tourist strip is compact and polished, with wood-fired pizzas, tacos, steaks and ice-cold Bintangs. Just metres away, local communities are living in very different circumstances, with rubbish-choked waterways leading towards one of the dirtiest beaches we’ve seen. Further out, luxury villas and apartments are appearing everywhere, while billboards advertise land for sale. One even declares: “You missed out on Canggu. Don’t miss out here.”
Getting around without your own transport isn’t easy either. Grab is banned, there are no buses and you’re left negotiating expensive tourist taxis or hiring a car or scooter.
That said, the beaches are beautiful. Tanjung Aan and Selong Belanak were our favourites, and Selong Belanak is a good place for beginner surfing. Unfortunately the quieter beaches in the region suffer from trash washed up on the beach.
If we came again, we’d base ourselves in Selong Belanak, hire a car, spend a few days surfing and then head north.
Day 39-42: Gili Air
Where we stayed: Melbao Homestay
To get here from Kuta, Lombok: we had no other choice but to take a tourist taxi to the other side of the island for the ferry to Gili Air. The local ferry leaves from Bangsal Port, takes 15 mins, and departs when the boat is full (purchase from the little stand to the far right). If you don’t want to wait, you can book a private tourist boat.
Gili Air was the perfect place to finish six weeks travelling through Java, Bali and Lombok. Yes, it was peak high season and every bed on the island was booked, but somehow it still felt completely manageable. The holiday vibes were very much in full swing.
The appeal is its simplicity. There are no cars or traffic on this island, just clanky bicycles, and the island is small enough to explore easily. The boys had some incredible diving experiences, there are epic sunsets towards Mount Agung and turtles are pretty much guaranteed just a short swim from the east coast.
There’s also a surprisingly good range of places to eat, from local warungs to some excellent international options. We even stumbled across a Taiwanese dumpling place right on the beach.
Book accommodation well ahead, bring aqua shoes for the coral and hire a bike, which costs around £2 a day. Tiny jellyfish can give you little stings, but honestly, they’re completely worth putting up with for the turtles.
To get to Lombok Airport: we took the local ferry back to the main island and then ordered a Grab car to take us to Lombok International Airport.