Koh Lipe with kids: beauty, bustle, and brilliant snorkelling

Sandy beaches and crystal clear waters await in Koh Lipe and, if you’re visiting with kids, there’s plenty to keep the whole family entertained. But prepare yourself for crowds, especially when visiting in peak season.

Only a two-hour ferry ride from the Malaysian island of Langkawi, Koh Lipe is many travellers’ first taste of Thailand. And, as introductions go, it’s pretty impressive. Although many veteran travellers lament the changes and development that have impacted the island over the past few decades, there’s no question that Koh Lipe remains a beautiful tropical retreat, albeit one that’s now more geared to visitors than locals.

For travelling families who venture here, there are a handful of kid-focused activities and the accommodation options are often orientated towards families, especially towards the upper end of the price scale.

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About Koh Lipe

Always featuring high on the list of the best islands to visit for families in Thailand, Koh Lipe is well setup for tourists and certainly knows what the crowds expect. Many families enjoy the balance offered on the island, between Western comforts and an unmistakably Thai pace of life.

As the island forms part of the Tarutao National Park, the protected offshore waters are ever popular with divers (both experienced and beginners) and this is one of the best places in Southeast Asia to join a dive trip, or simply tag along and snorkel in the calm waters. Children aged over 9 can do a safe and fun ‘bubble-maker’ course, while kids aged over 10 can do a either a Discover Scuba Diving course or a PADI dive course. Both our boys had an incredible first diving experience with Forra Diving and we returned a year later for them to complete their PADI Junior Open Water certification.

Walking Street is the main thoroughfare on the island, home to bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, travel agents and dive shops (and, er… cannabis shops). Branching off from here, you can walk or take a tuk-tuk to one of three main beaches (Pattaya, Sunrise and Sunset), each offering something slightly different for families.

Getting to Koh Lipe

Click here to book your ferry to/from Koh Lipe

The only way to reach Koh Lipe is via the sea, with frequent ferry services operating in peak season (mid-October to mid-May) from Langkawi to the south, and various other Thai islands to the north. In the low season (sometimes referred to as the Green Season), there are no ferries to/from Langkawi, and the other routes are vastly reduced, usually limited to Koh Lanta or the Thai mainland at Pak Bara Pier.

You could book your ferry tickets in person at one of the many travel agents in Thailand or at your accommodation but, in our experience, it’s much simpler and convenient to book online using 12Go. After booking on 12Go, you’ll receive a confirmation pdf via email, which you then show at the check-in desk. There’s no need to print anything out and the staff are familiar with 12Go bookings and will quickly check your booking reference number and issue you with a destination sticker and paper ticket.

When you arrive from Langkawi, you’ll disembark at the Bundhaya Ferry terminal from where you pass through immigration and pay National Park fees (see below for details). If you’re arriving/departing to any of the other islands or Thai mainland, the ferries arrive directly opposite Walking Street (the kiosks for check-in are also located here, on the beach outside the Steakhouse Restaurant).

Immigration process if arriving from Malaysia

If you’re arriving on the ferry from Langkawi, all immigration formalities are handled at the small kiosk just a few metres from the beach. It’s one of the most informal borders you’ll pass through during your travels and progress can be a little slow if you’re last off the ferry.

Firstly, it’s worth noting that after you’ve cleared immigration in Langkawi, the boat crew will take your passports from you before you board the ferry. This isn’t usual by any means and many travellers (us included) aren’t especially keen on their passports being withheld. Officially the reason is that some passengers ‘forget’ to clear Thai immigration but the reality is that the ferry terminal in Koh Lipe is so basic, there’s no way to stop someone deliberately bypassing immigration and walking straight into Thailand. So instead, you need to first queue at another kiosk to request your passport (tell them your nationality and they’ll ask you to choose yours from a pile!).

From here, you join another queue to have you passport stamped (remember to fill out the online Thai arrival card before arriving) and then to yet another desk to pay your National Park Fees in cash only (THB200 for adults, THB100 for children. You can also pay in Malaysian Ringgit although the exchange rate isn’t great: RM35 for adults and RM17 for children).

Finally, collect your bags from the pile of luggage on the beach and make your way into Thailand.

In reverse, if you’re heading to Malaysia, passports are taken from you before boarding and returned on the ferry. The immigration facilities in Langkawi are significantly more modern and less cumbersome.

How to get around the island

Koh Lipe is only a small island, measuring no more than a couple of kilometres across. The main pedestrian area is called Walking Street that runs for around five hundred metres from Pattaya Beach at Koh Lipe Pier to Sunrise Beach. The other main beach, Sunset Beach, is about one kilometre from Pattaya Beach.

Thanks to its compact size, most visitors traverse the island on foot, with the aptly named Walking Street containing most of the amenities you’ll need. If you do have further to travel, or have luggage with you, it’s straightforward to arrange a tuk-tuk, either by flagging one down or heading to the impromptu taxi rank at this location near Walking Street.

If you find a friendly driver, they’ll often give you their WhatsApp number and encourage you to message them when you need a ride. It’s usually a good option; the distances are so short on the island that they’re never more than a few minutes drive away.

Fares are fixed at THB50 per person and the tuk-tuks fit two people comfortably, three at a squeeze.

Family accommodation on Koh Lipe

Accommodation on Koh Lipe tends to get booked up early in the high season and it’s not uncommon for the hotels and resorts to be at full capacity from Christmas through to Easter (late-December until March or April). If you’re travelling on a budget, it can be difficult to find much available at the lower end of the price scale, especially if you are looking for a pool and air-conditioning.

We’ve stayed at two very different accommodations on Koh Lipe; one was a budget-friendly family hut, while the other was a clean, modern family room with air-conditioning and one of the best breakfasts we’ve ever had at any accommodation worldwide.

Forra Dive Resort Pattaya Beach

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FORRA Dive Resort is a basic option on Pattaya Beach, handily placed for the beach and Walking Street but lacking in any other amenities. The bamboo rooms are fairly spartan, with no air-conditioning (fans only) and simple private bathrooms, although the family room fitted our group well, with a separate area at the top for the boys to sleep.

Staff are helpful and professional, and can arrange dive trips for you (they’re part of the same company as FORRA Dives, of course). We did find the rooms very hot and difficult to relax in; each room has a balcony but unless you pay significantly more for a beachfront option, the view is limited to the chalet in front of you.

If you’re planning to take a diving tour, do remember that dive days are long, tiring days, and you may wish you had booked somewhere more comfortable to retreat to in the evenings. This is why on our second visit to Koh Lipe, we opted for a family room with air-conditioning.

The Reef Hotel and Studios

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Airconditioned rooms don’t come cheap in Koh Lipe. Our family room at The Reef Hotel and Studios was £118 per night. Admittedly, our stay coincided with Chinese New Year, so prices may have been inflated; even so, it felt expensive for Thailand. There was no view or balcony, but the room was clean and the air-conditioning ensured a very comfortable night’s sleep. Centrally located on the island, just a two-minute walk from Walking Street, it felt convenient yet beautifully quiet at night.

A special mention must go to the breakfast, which was excellent. You can choose one meal and one drink from the menu at any time between 7:30am and 4pm. This worked particularly well on days when we had early diving departures; we would have cereal in the room for breakfast (there’s a fridge) and then enjoy a toasted sandwich or pancakes at the café on our return.

The beaches

There are three main beaches on Koh Lipe:

• Pattaya Beach: our favourite, the one with the best snorkelling, cleanest sea, best choice of facilities and beautiful golden sands. It’s busy in the mornings with arrivals and departures on speedboats and longtail boats. But after 11am the water is much quieter.
  
• Sunset Beach: well worth a visit in the late afternoon for a sundowner and paddle in the sea, although do note that some rubbish tends to wash up here. Not the easiest to reach, either needs a tuk-tuk or walk back the road to/from Walking Street. The sea here is very tidal, so you may arrive to a huge beach with the sea far out, or a narrow strip of sand. This is reportedly the best beach for snorkelling, although we didn’t stay too long in the water due to the rubbish floating around us.
  
• Sunrise Beach: once a tranquil and unspoilt beach, this has been turned into a parking lot for longtail boats. No space to enter the water and views blocked by the boats. Best avoided.

Things to do on Koh Lipe with kids

For many visitors, life on Koh Lipe is all about chilling out, eating well, enjoying a snorkel off the beach and perhaps heading out onto a boat tour for the day.

1. Walking Street

If you’re here for several days, make sure you set aside at least an afternoon to wander along Walking Street, stopping at one of the many bars and restaurants that line the street. There are some Thai restaurants but it’s also a good chance to get your fix of Western dishes if you’ve been travelling for a while. Kids might be ready for the pizzas and Nutella pancakes.

2. Diving and snorkelling trips

The island and the surrounding waters are ideal for diving and snorkelling trips, whether you and the kids are complete beginners or experts. Many of the instructors are Europeans and are well-used to working with families and helping them get the best out of the day.

Choose from bubble-maker tours for kids aged over 9, Discover Scuba Diving for kids over 10, all the way up to multiple day PADI courses and advanced trips. Non-divers are welcome to join the boats (space permitting) and either snorkel or just enjoy some time out on the water. Lunch and tea/coffee are usually included, bring sunscreen, rash vests and hats as shade is limited.

There are also separate snorkel trips to book onto.

Alternatively, there is fairly good snorkelling straight from the beaches in around Koh Lipe. We suggest attaching a bright swim buoy to you so that you’re visible to longtail boats whizzing around.

3. Koh Adang day trip

Koh Lipe is also an excellent place to take an island boat tour to nearby islands (including Koh Adang), either booked as part of a group or negotiated individually with a local longtail boat owner.

Koh Adang feels wonderfully wild in comparison to Koh Lipe. The island forms part of Tarutao National Marine Park and is largely undeveloped, with dense jungle, quiet beaches and clear snorkelling spots. Many visitors hike to the viewpoint for sweeping panoramas back over Koh Lipe’s turquoise waters.

4. Muay Thai classes

For those wanting to try something active beyond the beach, training at Bonus Muay Thai is a great option. This large, covered outdoor gym offers sessions suitable for beginners through to experienced fighters, with a focus on technique, pad work and fitness.

There are no separate group classes for children, but kids can join a private session. Be sure to book in advance, as spaces fill quickly. The gym is open daily; contact them via Facebook for more information.

5. Get a massage

You won’t need to walk far along Walking Street before being offered a massage. A full-body oil massage typically costs around THB450, making it an affordable treat during your stay.

Thai massages can be fairly robust. Therapists may use stretching techniques, apply firm pressure, and, in some cases, incorporate abdominal massage (including a breast massage) as part of the treatment. If you prefer a gentler approach, it’s worth saying so beforehand.

Children are generally welcome, though we recommend asking the therapist to adjust the pressure accordingly. Our youngest is always keen to book in for a session.

Where to go next

Koh Libong is the closest island heading north, with Langkawi in Malaysia to the south. Many travelling families take the chance to combine several of the islands into one exotic island-hopping trip, check out our full guide to Thai Island Hopping with Kids for more information.

Final thoughts on Koh Lipe

As soon as you step ashore, life on Koh Lipe is geared towards relaxation, convenience and easy access to the water. There’s no doubt there are quieter and more tranquil islands in the Andaman Sea but, on the whole, Koh Lipe always seems to manage the crowds fairly well, with a strong focus on putting the tourist first and offering everything they might need all in once place.

The snorkelling and diving are excellent; even if you just snorkel from the beach it’s lots of fun, but the best way to see the underwater world is to book one of the dive trips. The experienced and switched-on instructors make the whole day accessible to all, and it’ll leave you with magical memories of the island and the waters that surround it.

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