Take a look at any Vietnam travel itinerary and it’ll inevitably run all the way from Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) in the south, to Hanoi in the north (or vice versa). Regardless of how much time is available, it sometimes feels like no trip to Vietnam is truly complete unless you’ve set foot in both cities. But is this the best approach, particularly when you’re backpacking with kids?
In truth, you ideally need at least five weeks to comfortably traverse the seventeen hundred kilometres that separates Saigon and Hanoi. Vietnam is a deceptively large country, with a huge amount of sights to see along the way. Some people might recommend a flight between Saigon and Hanoi, but you’re missing out on so much in-between, and who needs another flight anyway?
Holiday time is limited and we appreciate that five weeks is out of range for many travelling families, so how would we suggest you manage your time in Vietnam? The best approach is to choose either North or South Vietnam and focus your time and energy there. When you’re travelling with kids, relaxation and downtime are essential elements of any trip, so this way you can see everything you should, whilst still having some all-important recharge time.
Whichever region you choose, it makes sense to use the coastal city of Danang (close to the colourful and instagrammable Hoi An) as your start or end point. It’s pretty much halfway between Saigon and Hanoi, and has its own well-served international airport, plus it’s a major stop on the North-South railway line.
Vietnam with kids travel guide
Your comprehensive guide to travelling Vietnam with kids, including accommodation suggestions and an itinerary, from a family that spent 45 day overlanding from HCMC to Hanoi.
What’s it like in South Vietnam and highlights?
South Vietnam is home to Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon as everyone still calls it), Vietnam’s global city and the most cosmopolitan place in the country. It’s here you’ll find the country’s best restaurants, hotels and nightlife, plus its best connected airport. If you’re flying in from Australasia, Europe or the Middle East, it’s likely that Saigon will be the cheapest and most convenient place to land.
Further afield, if you’re looking for some classic Southeast Asian beach time, South Vietnam has you covered, with options ranging from Phu Quoc in the southwest, all the way along the coast to Danang via Mui Ne and Nha Trang.
Some of the highlights of South Vietnam include:
- Saigon: A Southeast Asian mega-city with all the fun and chaos you’d hope for. Save some time for the Cu Chi Tunnels which are only an hour from the city.
- Mekong Delta: Head out into the rivers and islands of this magical region, visiting beaches, floating markets and fishing villages along the way.
- Cu Chi Tunnels: Close enough to Saigon to make for an easy day trip, learn how the Vietcong hid, lived and fought during the war.
- Mui Ne and Nha Trang: Surfing, golden beaches, theme parks, cheap accommodation and a wide range of kid-friendly activities await. Both are ideal places to take the foot off the gas and let a few days pass by on the sea breeze.
- Dalat: Hill station high up in the clouds, this is the best place to escape the heat and take a motorbike tour around the surrounding countryside.
- Cambodia: If you’re visiting Vietnam as part of a longer Southeast Asian odyssey, South Vietnam is well-connected to Cambodia, with border options available towards Koh Rong or Phnom Penh.
What’s it like in North Vietnam and highlights?
North Vietnam offers a nature-based adventure away from the beaches, with several of the highlights only a short hop away from Hanoi, itself filled with historical sights and stories. Some of the best adventure spots are located in the north of the country, from the world-record breaking cave systems around Phong Nha, to the rice paddies and hiking around Sapa in the far northwest.
A visit to this region is less about beach time and more focused on outdoor activities, so make sure you plan in some downtime, perhaps at a quiet Sapa homestay, where the hours, days and weeks merge into one.
Some of the highlights of North Vietnam include:
- Hue: Imperial City, filled with reminders of former glories and empires. Plan your visit wisely though: scorching sun, sightseeing, and kids don’t always make the perfect combination.
- Phong Nha and Ninh Binh: slightly off the beaten track and away from the coast, these two places make for an exciting visit, with deep caves to explore and rivers to gently cruise along.
- Halong Bay: One of the signature destinations in Vietnam, this is one place everyone visiting the region has on their list. Choose your cruise company wisely though as not all are created equal: the longer your cruise, the further from the crowds and city you’ll be.
- Sapa: When the clouds lift and the rice paddies emerge, every shade of green is revealed in front of you. Whilst the city is popular (and busy) with tour groups, there are plenty of quiet, family-run homestays out in the countryside that receive a fraction of the guests but have much more to offer. Once you’ve recharged the batteries and had your fill of the views, head off on a motorbike tour, take a self-guided trek, or ride the cable car up to Fansipan, the highest point in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.
- Hanoi: The capital city is surprisingly easy to navigate, with Hoan Kiem Lake as a focal point near the Old Quarter. Whilst it lacks some of the comforts of Saigon, for many visitors this is actually a bonus, and makes a visit to Hanoi feel more authentic. The Old Quarter is perfect for a family stroll, stopping for Pho Bo or drinks when you pass somewhere that takes your fancy.
Getting around both North and South Vietnam
Both regions of Vietnam are equally well served with sleeper trains and buses, with every town and city along the way linked to one another.
We wouldn’t recommend sleeper buses for overnight journeys because the constant braking and speeding, accompanied by a blast of the horn every twenty metres don’t make for a restful sleep. The trains on the other hand are ideal for an overnight trip, especially if you’re a family of four and book one of the four-berth compartments.
During the day, trains are less frequent but still the best option, otherwise a sleeper bus is not a bad second-choice, especially if you snag one of the ‘VIP Cabin’ versions which have wide and long beds, wifi and free water.
For getting around places, Grab is the way to go. It works perfectly whether you’re in the middle of a Saigon rainstorm or tucked-up high in the countryside outside Sapa. Install the app, choose your destination and wait a few minutes for your ride to arrive.
When is the best time to visit both regions?
North Vietnam can suffer terribly at the hands of typhoons, with the main season running from May to October. Whilst these events are devastating when they hit, it’s difficult to predict and it shouldn’t stop you from planning a visit during this time. We visited in July and August and experienced very little in the way of heavy rainfall, although we were fortunate in Halong Bay, where a typhoon struck a couple of weeks after we left.
South Vietnam also has a rainy season at the same time of year (May to October) but it tends to be less severe than in the north.
Temperature-wise, South Vietnam is typically warmer than North Vietnam, with a more consistent temperature range (30C give or a take a few degrees). In the far north of the country around Sapa, the temperature really plummets around December and January, when snow isn’t uncommon. Elsewhere, it’s cooler in the north, but can still get hot in Hanoi from May to September.
The best time to visit both regions is around November to March. If you’re visiting during the European summer holidays, the weather in the southern half of the country is likely to be more reliable.
The central area of Vietnam, from Nha Trang up to Hue has more stable and consistent weather, avoiding some of the heavy downpours experienced elsewhere.
Suggested South Vietnam Itinerary
As a guide, this itinerary can take anything from 12 to 20 days.
- Fly into Saigon and spend a few days getting to know the city and surrounding sights.
- Head southwest and visit the Mekong Delta, then set aside a few days for beach time on Phu Quoc.
- Travel back to Saigon, perhaps with a day or two to recharge.
- Sleeper bus to Mui Ne, beach and surfing time.
- Bus onto Dalat with its cooler weather and motorbike tours.
- Nha Trang, more beach time and Western comforts, perhaps with a splurge on a posh hotel.
- Overnight sleeper train to Danang, spent last few days along the coast at Hoi An before flying out from Danang.
If you’re short on time, check out our 10 day South Vietnam itinerary.
Suggested North Vietnam Itinerary
As a guide, this itinerary can take anything from 15 to 25 days.
- Fly into Danang, check out Hoi An for a few days
- Motorbike tour to Hue, then a couple of days exploring the Imperial City
- Afternoon train to Dong Hoi, taxi to Phong Nha where two days is needed to explore the caves.
- Continue on to Ninh Binh for river cruises and water activity areas.
- Train to Hanoi, one night here to explore the Old Quarter.
- Three day, two night Halong Bay cruise.
- Back to Hanoi for one night.
- Sleeper bus to Sapa (six hours), stay as long as you’re able at a quiet family-run homestay.
- Bus back to Hanoi and fly out from there.
Which would we pick ourselves?
Both are incredible regions of the world, but our favourite has to be North Vietnam. There’s no doubt that South Vietnam does beach life really well, and you could lose yourselves for a couple weeks on the golden beaches of Phu Quoc or Nha Trang.
But there’s something truly special about North Vietnam, especially if you’re looking to get something extra out of your adventure. The number of outdoor, nature-based activities is incredible, and we prefer Hanoi over Saigon as a city destination. Finally, Northern Vietnam has Sapa, our favourite place in Vietnam and one of our favourite places in Southeast Asia.
Final thoughts on choosing where to go
Personal choice plays a big part here and you can’t really go too far wrong in Vietnam, it truly is a dream family destination. Whether you choose North or South Vietnam, you’re in for a magical adventure in a beautiful country.
It might be tempting to book internal flights and race around the country, and it’s true that some visitors follow this approach and end up having a memorable trip, even if they’ve only just scratched the surface. However, if you decide to slow down and limit yourself to one half of the country, you’ll have the time and flexibility to linger in your favourite location, reap the benefits of slow family travel, and avoid travel burnout.
And the good news is that by only visiting one half of the country, you’ve given yourself the perfect excuse to return to Vietnam in the future, and see how the other half compares.
You may also like to read:
Hanoi with kids: top 10 things to do and where to stay
Ho Chi Minh City with kids: top 12 things to do in and around the city
Riding a Vietnam sleeper train: what to expect and how to book